Skip to content
October 22

Pocket Detail on B5824 Coat

I spent my Friday night and the vast majority of Saturday working on my coat.  I feel as if I really didn’t get that much done since I was primarily working on correcting some seams in my bodice (more on that later).  But I did get my fun, little pocket detail done after lots of stressful/precision stitching.

This is where I ended up but let me go back to the beginning for you all.

After seeing this wonderful welt pocket on Etsy & the Coletterie, I knew I had to recreate it on a garment for my very own:

The pockets on my Butterick 5824 Coat are vertical and are placed at the side seams.  So instead of fighting with the original pocket design I decided it would be easier to make the tabbed pockets first then stitch them onto the coat.  This meant that mine wouldn’t be as sleek as the original (since I had to double-up my fabric) but I’m still happy I was able to get the similar look & feel to them.

First Design:

The pink paper at the top was my original, crude hand drawing of the tabbed pockets from the original (so I didn’t have to run back and forth to my computer to see the pockets).

The blue tissue paper is what I mocked up from the drawing.  I used the height of the pocket opening as my guide to how long the tabbed design should be, and as you can see I was playing around with different curvatures for the pocket.  I’ve included a 5/8″ seam allowance all around the perimeter of the pocket to help me assess the design and to also aid in stitching it up.

I cut two identical pieces out in some scrap cotton I had laying around, I then stitched all sides except the bottom, turned and pressed it right side out.

Held up next to the bodice and crinoline on my dress form:

The shape is okay, but it seemed a bit too large for my tastes.  I wanted a subtle, chic look not an *in your face* pocket.

I decided to fold the top and bottom edges in by 1/2″ and I also decreased the width of the curvy part to make it a bit more narrow, yet still in proportion to the length:

It’s a subtle difference, but I think it’s much better.

Marking changes on the template:

I know there’s a lot of lines happening now… but you can see that I have marked where to remove some fabric by the slashed/wavy sections.  On both sides I am removing 3/8″ and near the curve I’m going to be folding that bit down to make the curve less prominent (same as folding a pattern over to shorten a bodice or a sleeve.)

From here, I got so wrapped up into stitching my pocket tab that I didn’t do much documenting.  So here are my steps:

  1. Cut out 4 piece of fashion fabric with the template (2 in my coating and 2 in contrast material)
  2. Make contrast bias tape
  3. Attach bias tape to the curved edge on each pocket set
  4. Stitch pockets, right side together leaving the bottom edge open
  5. Trim allowances to 1/4″, notch around curve, and grade the points
  6. Turn right side out and press till satisfied

I basted each tabbed pocket detail on the side seams with 1/4″.

This is the underside of the pocket:

I didn’t use the blue fabric on the underside of the pocket because this grey fabric was a bit thinner and I figured it would make for a nicer looking pocket.

After this step, I stitched the pocket bags on top of the tabbed pocket, again using a 1/4″ seam allowance as the pattern directions stated.

I stitched the side seams together and from there I tacked down each of the tabbed pockets to help with the large turn of cloth there was at the side seams from all of the widths of fabric.

This is the final pocket on the right:

This is my favorite pocket out of the two; it has such a lovely curve to it.

This is the left pocket:

It’s just okay.  It doesn’t have that great, round curve instead this one looks a little flatter.  That’s why I put this pocket on the left instead of the right.

Do I think the right pocket is going to be seen more than the left?  No.  I can’t seem to find a good reason now why I put the better looking pocket on the right instead of the left (besides the fact that I’m right handed).  heh

The last detail I am planning on adding to my pockets is a little button in the contrasting charcoal grey.

I had this button lying around, so I just laid it onto so I could imagine what the final one will look like.

What do you guys think about the pockets and buttons?  I’m thinking the button will look smashing since I’ll have a similar colored button on the bodice, about 6″ above these pockets.

Final Thoughts & Next Steps:

Skirt Design:  The skirt portion of this coat is really, really full.  It seems like it’s almost as full as a circle skirt.  I held it up against my body and it seems to emphasize my hips too much and makes me look dumpy.  I’m not sure if it’s the length (still too long) or the fact it’s not attached to the bodice, or that I don’t have a belt cinching my waist.  But right now it just doesn’t seem to work for me.

I’m debating re-stitching the seams to take out some of the width on the skirt.  I won’t do this until I reduce some of these factors; I’ll first attach it to the bodice and tie a belt around it and even pin the hem up to fully gauge if I need to reduce some of the width towards the hem.

And lastly….. I hate to admit it but I’m starting to get tired of sewing my coat.  There are so many other projects that I want to get done before the winter and even more projects I want to make for my cruise in January that I haven’t even begun to plan for.

I guess I was hoping to get further than stitching the pockets & skirt and fixing some issues on the bodice after a whole day’s work.  I still have to hem the sleeves, cut and sew the lining, figure out the detail I’m adding to the outer collar & then stitch the whole thing up.  At this point I only feel like I’m 1/2 way done….

What do you guys do to keep yourselves motivated to continue a project?  (Because I think this is the point where I generally stop working on something to start a new project…)

  1. Sew Little Time / Oct 22 2012

    love that pocket detail! was it piped or did you just use bias tape?

    know what you mean about spending so long on one project. i really enjoyed my anise jacket ( and love the end result) buti was so happy for it to be finished and onto something else!

    • Liz / Oct 22 2012

      I only added piping at the curve (the piping was on the bias). The rest of the grey that you see is coming from the underside of the pocket due to the thickness & turning it right side out. It wasn’t supposed to do that, but I decided to work with it. And when I was tacking my pocket down I decided to embrace it some more and I started flipping more of the charcoal grey out on purpose.

  2. Suna / Oct 22 2012

    When I reach the point where I feel like abandoning a project it’s usually because I suspect it will not work as I thought it would, which means I’ll have to get back to the planning board to either alter the design, read up on techniques, fabric properties etc, and just cannot face the extra work involved. I usually finds it helps to put it aside for a while, no longer than a week, though, or I risk forgetting what I was planning to do next. So I’d recommend taking a few days break from it and see if it helps.

    • Liz / Oct 22 2012

      Thanks so much Suna. If I put my coat away for a week, it will be sitting for 2 weeks actually. heh I’m going out of town all of next week so it will be sitting for quite some time. But I bet I’d be itching to get back to it by the time I came home again. :)

      I love your blog by the way! :) Just saw you made your own cold cream, how neat.

  3. Rachel / Oct 22 2012

    Something small and quick. I know one of the bloggers out there was blogging about making undies whilest stuck on a big project. Try something small and quick- maybe even something from your cruise list… that can be made in a day or less.

    • Liz / Oct 22 2012

      Hmmm I’m going to have to think about what quick projects I have on my list. :) Thanks Rachel.

  4. Shari / Oct 22 2012

    Cool pocket! I really like the gray underside and a button really finishes the look. I’m fairly short and, although I love a full skirt, I think a full coat skirt could be a bit heavy and heavy looking on me (and maybe cumbersome when sitting, especially on public transportation!) I think reducing some of the fabric could help without really changing the basic design. I always do a simple project after a large one or step away from a large one for time to think about it if I feel a little unsure about it. Sometimes, I can go back after a day and other times it takes longer. Maybe the first snowflakes of the season will inspire you :)

  5. Shinygreenpenny / Oct 22 2012

    Love thE pocket…I may need to make one of those, hmmmm….

  6. Meg the Grand / Oct 22 2012

    Ooooo…. your pockets are delightful!! I think the blue works perfectly with the grey, and the buttons are a fantastic touch. I love that you like the right pocket better than the left – I would totally put the better one on the right too – us right-handed folks are so biased like that haha! :)

  7. SeamstressErin / Oct 22 2012

    Beautiful pocket detail. My thoughts on putting aside projects – do it. If you’re not having fun with it, if it feels like it’s turning into a chore, then it’s not worth it. Work on something else that is fun and inspiring for a while, then come back to it. If you’re worried you won’t come back to it, then set a specific day that you will revisit it (2 weeks from now, for example), and work on it again, until it’s not fun again.

  8. Qui Pardue / Oct 22 2012

    Liz the pockets are fabulous!! So pretty!! Surely you are more than half way? All that hand stitching is behind you now, right?! Well at any rate, when I’m tiring of a longer project, usually one or two evenings away from the sewing machine is enough for me to recover and pick-up a project again. But I’ve never done quite this long of a project ;) It is looking so beautiful though!!

  9. Ginger / Oct 22 2012

    Ooh, the pockets are so cute! What a great detail!

    Gosh, it’s so easy to get bogged down in the middle of a long project. I haven’t sewed anything so involved, but on some long knitting projects, it’s easy to start hating what you’re making when you’ve been working on it forever. Keep going! I really think this is going to be lovely!

  10. Liz / Oct 22 2012

    This is looking fabulous!! I love the pocket detail.
    When I get bogged down in a project, I start a smaller easy project, like a quick top, something that takes less than a day. That way I am not too distracted, but still have that feeling of having finished something.

  11. Rochelle New / Oct 23 2012

    OH MY GOSH SO CUTE!!! Well done, Lady. They look awesome :)

  12. Eileen Strom / Mar 20 2015

    OK, so I am confused… The gray jacket or coat at the top – so it this a pocket flap sewn into a seam pocket ? Or is it a welt pocket that is unique? I see that you just made a flap shaped like it for your side seamed skirt pockets (nice btw)
    I am interested in the gray version and would like to know how it is made especially if it is a welt style.
    Thanks. Eileen

    • Liz / Mar 24 2015

      Hi Eileen. The blue coat is mine, the inspiration is the grey jacket. Since I have no idea how the grey jacket pocket was constructed, I just made a flap and stitched it to my side seam pocket.

      I wish I could tell you more about the grey version – I want to know too as it’s quite lovely.

Leave a comment