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June 15

Aqua Waves Jumper Pattern

Since I’ve cast off my Briar Rose Jumper, my knitting needles are now freed up to start a new project.  While I have amassed lots of vintage Stitchcraft magazines and patterns, I still wanted to retain my original focus and knit up this fresh, spring jumper I’m dubbing the “Aqua Waves” Jumper.


 Download the free pdf pattern here: Aqua Waves Jumper.

Click on the link to add the pattern to your Ravelry Queue or Favorites.

Errata 1: It appears that this jumper’s right side is actually the purl side.  I personally feel that this is a typo.  But be sure to work up a gauge swatch so you can see for yourself.

Errata 2: When working in the round with the knit side being the RS (right side), you’ll need to alter the 4 repeat rows of the main body pattern as follows:

  • Row 1: *Knit 4, Yarn-over, Slip one stitch knit-wise, Purl one, Pass slipped stitch over the purl stitch, knit 4*
  • Row 2: *Knit 4, Purl 2, Knit 4*
  • Row 3: *Knit 4, Yarn-over, Purl 2 together, Knit 4*
  • Row 4: *Knit 4, Purl 2, Knit 4*

The main change is on row three.  You have to yarn-over before you purl the two stitches together, unlike the pattern instructions which called for the other way around.

This pattern comes from the June 1957 edition of Stitchcraft magazine.  I don’t think my name for the jumper is that off since the original pattern uses a sky blue for the main color and contrasts it with white at the neckline.  The construction is somewhat different than I’d imagined since the wavy, lace yolk is worked completely on the right hand side first, then the left hand side is worked separately.  When I get to that part, I’m going to see if I can’t just pick up all the stitches I need and knit it all at once.

I cast on for this jumper on Sunday afternoon, using Cascade Heritage Silk in Aqua Foam (#5630).  It’s a fingering weight yarn with a content of 85% Merino Wool and 15% Mulberry Silk.  This is the same type of yarn I used on my Pink Briar Rose Jumper which makes it easier to figure out alterations I’ll be making to this pattern since I’m already familiar with the characteristics of this yarn.


I’m using size 2 needles and have a gauge of 8 stitches and 10 rows to an inch even though the pattern itself has a gauge of 8.5 stitches and 10.5 rows per inch.  (I’ll be casting on a slightly different number than the pattern indicates as a result.)

One thing to keep in mind if you’re going to knit this up, is that the lace pattern is worked in sets of 10 stitches and in rows of 4.  I’ve decided to knit this jumper in the round to eliminate the seaming, and have cast on 220 stitches.  For my gauge this works out to 27.5 inches, which will give me about 1.5 inches of negative ease since my waist is 28-29 inches (depending on what I eat for lunch/dinner.)

After working on the Briar Rose Jumper, I found that this yarn has a bit more stretch and drape than I’d expected.  I had worked the Briar Rose jumper up for 0″ ease at the waist and decreased it to 2″ negative ease at my bust.  But after knitting it up, it feels like I actually have positive ease at my waist and 0″ ease at my bust.  So this is the primary reason why the ribbing looks itty bitty.

I’m planning on documenting my changes and any issues I come across with this pattern, in case one of you lovely readers ends up making it for your very own.

As always, don’t hesitate to leave me a comment about any particular pattern you may want me to post in the future.  Happy Wednesday, peeps!

Update:  Completed Aqua Waves

Hop on over to my new post for more images of the completed jumper.

  1. Clare S / Jun 15 2011

    Another pattern to add to my list of reasons to learn now to knit!

    You’ve really inspired me – at the weekend I bought ‘Purls of Wisdom’ and today I treated myself to a lovely teal shade of oh-so-soft Rowan Cashsoft to make some fingerless mittens/wrist warmers! Bit scared to try knitting in the round, so we’ll have to see how that goes!! X

    • Liz / Jun 15 2011

      YAY!
      Clare, I actyally LOVE working in the round. Since I knit continental (hold the yarn in my left hand) my projects go much faster when I don’t have to do lots of purl stitches on the wrong side, to work in stockinette.
      The only “trick” you need to know is when you make your first knit stitch in order to connect the two ends, for working in the round, is that you just have to make sure there aren’t any stitches that are twisted. All this means is that you just make sure your cast on ridges are all on the bottom and you should be good to go.

      • Clare S / Jun 16 2011

        Thank you for the tip! I’m going to have to be very careful about that one … I’m quite looking forward to getting started now!

  2. Gina / Jun 15 2011

    I really like this color. this is going to look very nice on you, good luck with the rest.

  3. Kat / Jun 15 2011

    Forgive me for being stupid but I have never understood negative and positive ease and how to change it. Is it just how much the yarn stretches?

    • Liz / Jun 15 2011

      Hey Kat! Yes you’re exactly right! It’s all about how the yarn stretches and also about how tight/loose you want your finished garment to be.
      It’s taken me quite a while to try and navigate the “world of ease” with knitting so I don’t blame you for not understanding. And honestly I’m still ‘just’ getting it myself.
      If you want something more close fitting, you’ll want negative ease and if you want something looser you’ll want positive ease. For instance if you’re waist is 30″ and you want your jumper to hug your skin, I’d go for some negative ease 1″-3″ depending on your yarn and gauge. This means that your garment will have to stretch 1″-3″ in order to fit your waist.
      And if you want something to have some drape I’d go with 0″-2″ of positive ease, depending of course on how drapey or loose you want it to look.

      Does this make sense?

      So in order to translate that to your knitting pattern, all this means is that you can either add stitches (for more ease=looser fitting) or subtract stitches (for negative ease=closer fitting). But you would only do this alteration if you didn’t think the pattern will work for you as it’s originally been written.

      Kat, I think you may have just inspired me to write up a post about ease!

  4. Cat / Jun 16 2011

    Hi Liz!

    I just happened upon your blog, and you are the cutest! I’m a sewer too, and I love looking at other blogs to see the tips and techniques that other sewers use. Would love for you to check mine out too!

    :)

    Cat

  5. Karen / Jun 19 2011

    so I am getting brave and starting to knit. I think I have got all the stitches down and now I want to make the striped yolk jumper you have posted, if you could give any advice on how to read these patterns (things that aren’t modern descriptions) I would appreciate it. Like where on the pattern does it say how much yarn I need to buy? Any way thanks for your posts and the patterns. You are inspiring.

    • Liz / Jun 20 2011

      Hey Karen!
      How awesome you’re going to knit this jumper along with me! We can have our own mini knit-along. :)

      First things first, this pattern originally calls for Patons Beehive Fingering 2-ply, patonized yarn. The amout of yarn that you’ll need will depend on your gauge swatch and also on what size you’ll be knitting up. But if you have the same specs as the pattern: Gauge of 8.5 stitches per inch and 10 rows per inch along with knitting for 33″-34″ or the 35″-36″ bust size you’ll need 4 oz. of the blue and 1 oz. of the white as stated in the pattern (it’s in the upper left hand corner on the pdf where it says Materials).

      I did some searching didn’t find the exact yardage but based on the gauge from the next type of yarn in this link, I guestimated how much yardage you’d need if you used the Patons Beehive fingering 2-ply yarn: 4 oz. is probably about 700 yards of the main color and the 1 oz is probably about 175 yards for the contrast neckline color.

      On my briar Rose Jumper as well as my Caledonia I only ever needed 2 skeins of the Cascade heritage silk fingering weight yarn (aka sock yarn), which is 874 yards total. That being said, for each of these two projects I bought 3 skeins, just in case. I always like to have more, than less.

      I hope this helps!

      • Karen / Jun 20 2011

        I think I am understanding a little better now. I was expecting it to say I needed 2 3 oz skeins but by saying I need 4 oz I just need to do some simple math and decide how many skeins to get to add up to the 4 oz.

  6. Couturette / Jun 20 2011

    What a beautiful pattern and a very nice color for it. This is going to be a great sweater for sure.

  7. google / Nov 29 2013

    Hi, just wanted to mention, I loved this blog post. It was
    inspiring. Keep on posting!

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