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October 6

40’s Striped Jumper

As promised, this week’s free knitting pattern comes from the Complete Guide to Modern Knitting and Crochet book that I featured last week.

Several of you wanted this pattern, so I had to post it up for you all.

Click on the link to download the free pdf pattern: 40’s Striped Jumper

This is such a sweet little jumper, don’t you agree?  What ‘makes’ this jumper IMO is the little details such as the boat-neck opening and the slight puffed sleeves, along with the lovely model and styling.  Basically everything.  heh

The pattern is as follows:

  • 2.5 inches of navy ribbing
  • 8 rows of turquoise, 1 row navy
  • 8 rows of grey, 1 row navy
  • 8 rows cerise, 1 row navy
    • Yes, I sadly had to look up what the color cerise is; it’s a hot pink. 
  • 8 rows powder blue, 1 row navy
  • 8 rows white, 1 row navy

The gauge for this jumper, using size 3.5mm needles, is 7 sts and 9 rows to an inch.  The yarn listed is simply a 3-ply wool.  Today that would be similar to a fingering weight yarn or a very light sport weight yarn.  If you’ll be knitting this up, make sure you make a gauge swatch with your yarn/needles to ensure you’re getting the correct tension.

For me personally, when I use a fingering weight yarn with size 2 needles I have a gauge of 8 sts and 10 rows per inch.  So if I were to knit this up with a basic fingering weight yarn, using the larger needles I probably would get 7 sts and 9 rows to an inch.  But I’m not certain I’d like the look of that gauge (too airy & holey) so I’d attempt to find a heavier weight fingering or a light sport weight yarn with the size 3.5mm needles (or a size smaller) to get the correct tension.  This way I’d have a less-holey knit stitch, but with the same gauge that was given in the pattern. 

Have I completly confused you all here?  I hope not.  I thought it would be helpful for the beginner knitters out there to follow along with my “knit thoughts”, since this is what I do for every new pattern (vintage or modern).

As always, let me know if there is anything in particular you’d like me to post up. 

And next week I’ll be posting up that sweet little dress I featured last week along with the page on smocking.

  1. Annabelle / Oct 6 2011

    I would have needed to look up what color “cerise” referred to as well. Such a cute jumper. With all of these wonderful patterns that you are posting, it is going to be difficult to decide what to knit next.

  2. K-Line / Oct 6 2011

    This info is totally helpful (as a newbie knitter). The idea is that a thicker wool, with the same needle size, will produce a denser fabric. I don’t like holey fabrics either – I wish I’d known more when I knit the Wispy sweater. I would have used a thicker wool there – or smaller needles.

    • Liz / Oct 6 2011

      YES! This is exactly correct: A thicker wool with the same needle size will get you a denser fabric. But you will also need to recheck your gauge, if you’re doing that. A thicker yarn will generally produce bigger stitches, so to keep the gauge the same you may need to size down the needles. It really a balancing act between the yarn and the needles.

      I don’t want to bombard you with information, but one aspect that will be helpful for knitters wanting to move from beginner to intermediate is resizing a sweater based on your gauge. If you have the perfect yarn and used that magical needle size to get yourself the perfect density of knitted “fabric” you can apply your perfect gauge to the pattern you want to make with simple math. I wouldn’t do this with drastic yarn differences like a bulky to a sport weight, but you could do this with a fingering to sport or for a sport weight to a dk weight yarn.

      Feel free to convo me for more info. But you have the gist of it! Happy knitting & sewing.

      • K-Line / Oct 7 2011

        I think that’s next on my list. I know how dense I want things, and what styles I like. I’m a bit afraid to alter gauge but, seriously, even when I get gauge on a swatch, I find my tension throughout the lifespan of my project is not 100 per cent consistent. I don’t mean that the fabric looks disjointed, just that the size isn’t a given. I’m still getting a sense of that, and of how my knitting style/tension jibes with the instructions for patterns.

      • K-Line / Oct 7 2011

        Just want to let you know that this info likely just saved a sweater I’m working on (the Tubey Sweater). It was too loose at the top – badly cast on but also in very grow-y yarn in rib. I just picked up and knit, using size 7 needles (the rib is in size 8), a garter stitch front neck which a) tightened everything up – it was too loose for my shape and looser than the gauge said it should be, b) brought some consistency with sleeves I altered to have garter stitch at the hem and c) adequately raised a borderline cleavage popping, low/square neckline. Thank you so much!

  3. Tasha / Oct 6 2011

    Cerise I would have gotten since I knew from my high school French it’s French for cherry, but I’ve totally had to look up color names before. I can’t recall what the name was but a recent vintage pattern I had to look up some odd shade of blue.

    I really like this pattern a lot, particularly the neckline. I’m having a love hate relationship with short-sleeved jumpers lately. I love the way they look but then never end up wearing them. I still think this would look cute with long sleeves, though. I’d love to knit this when I get off my stranded kick… or maybe when I just need a break from it with a project on the side. lol

    Thanks for sharing it!

  4. ali / Oct 7 2011

    Yes, the word cerise is French for cherry but it is used for a colour it means that the colour is a deep pink which has red tones in it. ( I speak French). Thank you by the way for the tips on gauge, wools and weight of one’s wool. I really appreciate it. I’ve downloaded the sweater pattern and I’m adding it to my list of things that I’d like to knit.

  5. Casey / Oct 7 2011

    Thank you so much for sharing this! :) I’ll chime in and say thank you for the gauge/yarn weight comments as well. I’ve gotten a bit better about muddling through the gauge requirements for vintage knitting, but am always glad for a little extra input! ;)

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