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June 3

Simplicity 4532: Waistband Construction

I’ve been trying to focus on finishing the remaining 2 pieces I set off to make in the beginning of May, and I feel soo close.  But they’re still in the wip phases.  I’m hoping I can finish them up this weekend so I can outline a new set of projects for myself.

I’ve been plugging away on my 1/2 circle skirt from the 50’s, Simplicity 4532 and decided to try and document more of the construction than just posting up the finished pieces.

Below is my waistband for my 1/2 circle skirt.  I’ve interfaced the shell fabric, to give this fabric some extra stability.  The last two skirts I’ve made, I don’t think had enough structure to them.  So while in retrospect I don’t think I needed to do this extra step, I wanted to be safe rather than sorry.

I’ve attached some Bemberg lining to the insides, and I’ve pre-serged all the edges.  I trim down all of my seam allowances at the waist to reduce bulk, but I don’t like working with the fabrics as they fray, so I always serge these seams.

Here’s my waistband facing piece, ready to set it.  I basted some horsehair canvas to the waistband piece since I wanted this skirt to have more structure.  (And after trying it on, it really does have a lot of structure because of this facing.)

Let’s hear it for piping!!!  This is my first time adding in piping to a garment, and I love it!  I don’t know why I was so afraid of this embellishment.  I want to try it on everything now.  :)

So I’ve sewn the facing to the waistband at the top, and I’ve pressed and trimmed all of the edges.  I know there are fancy techniques to applying the waistband to minimize the hand sewing.  I’ve tried a few, and I just seem to bet better looking results when I take my time and hand stitch everything together.

And lastly, I wanted to show you guys that the ‘myth’ is true.  Any skirt that has some bias does need to sit for at least 24 hrs!

(That’s Felix’s hand holding my skirt up for me.)  I can’t get over this craziness!  Look at the difference between the middle of the skirt and the sides. On the shell there’s about a 1″ difference after letting this skirt hang for about a day and a half.  And the lining is worse, there’s about a 2″ difference between the side seam and the bias center.  For good measure I’m going to let it hang just a bit longer since I didn’t have the waistband completely finished when I started to hang it.  I really want to get most of the bias stretch out before I hem, since I don’t want to have to re-hem it later on.

So once I get the hem all finished up, comes the fun part: Umbrella and rain applique.  :)  To me that seems like a fun Saturday evening project.

Do you guys have any fun plans for the weekend?  Is everyone participating in Made Me June?

  1. Gina / Jun 3 2011

    Great job Liz! I have been called the piping queen because piping has made it way to a lot of my garments. I love your skirt and the piping is so fine. It’s good to see you hanging your skirt for 24 hours. Worth the time to have lasting results that you love. I really like the colors you pick in general for your fabrics. They are pretty and happy. Every time I run into silk I think of you, because you use it so much, funny how things like that stick in your mind! Happy sewing!

  2. Jess / Jun 4 2011

    The piping looks great. I’ve been afraid to try it. I’m working the muslin for a dress I’m draping.

  3. Karen / Jun 5 2011

    This is why blogs are great, I have never thought to hang a skirt before hemming it. Now I have read about it on a few blogs and I know to do it the next time I make any type of circle skirt. I am really liking me made June, I plan on doing a post tomorrow of all my days so far. I also love your piping:)

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