Design Thoughts on Gertie’s Butterick 5824 Coat

I don’t believe I ever updated you on my final fabric selection for the Gertie Coat (Butterick 5824) after sharing all of my swatches.  I was a good, little seamstress and attempted to use the purple and black coating that I have in my stash (since it did start to grow on me again).  I ended up being about 1 yard shy of the material due to the pattern layout & grainline orientation.  So I happily ordered myself that lucious teal fabric from Fashion Fabrics Club. *Wooot*

It’s not a light-weight coating material, but its a sturdy yet drapish, medium-weight wool that I think will look great when all sewn up.  Well, I hope it will look good since I’ve made some bad fabric selections in the past.  I know the weight of the skirt will cause some issues which will have to be addressed, but the light weight material just won’t cut it a Chicago-fall season very long.  And I want my coat to carry me as long into the winter as possible.

As I patiently wait (totally can’t wait for it to come why isn’t it coming????) for my fabric to arrive in the mail, I’ve been pondering some embellishments for my coat.  Seriously, I’m growing impatient since I placed the order over a week ago.

While I do like the teal fabric I settled on, I wishing I could have found an adequate weight fabric that was much more vibrant and fun.  I hunted around for some bright reds and grass greens, but they were all too heavy/thick for this coat via Gertie’s recommendations.  There were plenty to be seen but they all seemed to be sold out on the websites I was looking at.  Ahh well….  such is life.

Seeing as how I wish I had more *pop* on this coat I’ve been looking around online for inspiration images to see if I can’t incorporate a thing or two to make it more “me”.  I always want to incorporate every thing I love on 40’s and 50’s coats onto one garment, so in the midst of all of my ooo-ing and ahhh-ing at vintage images I’ve tried to reign myself in as to what would look good on this particular coat design.

Tailored Look

Tab, Welt Pockets:

I’m 100% sold on doing some kind of pocket detail like this one.  Colette aka Sarai shared this link a while back when she was talking about welt pockets, and I pinned it straight away.  The pockets on the Butterick pattern are vertical pockets right on a seam line.  So I was thinking of making a pair of these and stitching them to the right side of the coat front since the pockets aren’t welts.

Contrast Collar:

This is a jacket I found on etsy (yes… it’s been sold).  I love the slight contrast collar on this jacket and if I do something like this, I’d mirror the same color accent on the pocket detail and perhaps include a cuff also.

Whimsical Look

Lace Paneled skirt via Anthropologie:

I’ve had this skirt pinned for quite some time, but I think something like this would be lovely on the hem of the coat, would bring a pop of interest and perhaps color.

I’ve been itching to try my hand at rouleau:

I had this image pinned in my 1940’s inspiration board on pinterest (dress via etsy & also sold), but I love the idea of incorporating some kind of rouleau design onto the collar of the coat.  I’d mirror it along the center front of the coat and perhaps around the button holes as well.  I think it lends a unique touch to the design.


Do I think this coat needs a belt: No.  Do I want a belt anyways: Yes.

As the image states, I found this on Couture Allure.  What I love about this is the belt on the girl in the middle.  It’s a simple belt, but you see how it’s cinched by two buttons in the center front… it would lend itself perfectly to the original Butterick coat design since it has those same two buttons as a closure.

I’m a big fan of belts in general.  With the extra ease that is normally built into coats, if I’m not wearing something bulky underneath, I like having the option to cinch my waist so I can look as shapely as possible.


I think you can already see that I either lean towards a tailored, clean look or a more bold and whimsical look for this coat.  Once I mock up my muslin I’m hoping that I will be able to just *feel* what should be the best route for this coat.  I have a hunch I should lean towards a more tailored look since the coat design itself is more reminiscent of the 50’s instead of the 40’s.  Plus I’m in love with that tabbed pocket design and it needs to be on a jacket or coat of some sort asap!

Lastly, I have a few more coat inspiration images on my pinterest coat board if you’d care to take a look.  Anyone else doing Gertie’s Sew along?

In: Sewing

Blogger for 6 years and counting, I am a passionate creator who loves to tinker.

Comments (11)

  1. Marie September 25, 2012 — 7:58 AM

    Oooh, you’re coat is going to be soooo nice! And this style will suit you perfectly! I was going to join in on Gertie’s sewalong, but I Opted for the Anise one last minute as it would enable me to stashbust instead. I really can’t afford to keep buying new things without making the old ones…sob! But maybe I’ll get round to Gertie’s coat another time ;o)

  2. i love those pockets! i’m also doing anise as i have a long winter coat from last year i can wear, so i’m making anise more of a autumn/ spring jacket. i did like the purple but i’m so glad you have gone for the teal – i will be gorgeous and i think you’ll love the end result much more, which is what you want when you are putting so much work int oa coat!

  3. Shari September 25, 2012 — 8:57 AM

    Yay! I picked that teal coating. Anything with rayon, I love because of the drape. I think contrast on the collar and or cuffs would look great and would lend that extra color so needed for a long midwest winter. The sea fan sweater collar type design on your pinterest, with either your embroidery skills or rouleau could be stunning

  4. love those pockets–fantastic idea :)

  5. I really want to do the sew along and I even picked up the pattern last time I was at Jo-Anns but I don’t think it’s going to happen. I have nothing remotely appropriate for any part of this pattern in my stash and I just bought two new coats last winter so I don’t really need another coat…. :(

  6. Ginny September 25, 2012 — 1:05 PM

    I’m not making Gertie’s coat but I have finally pulled out my 4 year old UFO coat. Floor length black brocade with velvet collar and contrast band around the hem. I’ve done welt pockets today for the first time ever and love the finish of them. I’m just buttonholes, lining and hem away from being finished now, and really excited to get it finished at long last.

    You could quite easily ignore the side-pockets in the pattern and add your own welt pockets, those tabbed welts are very pretty.

  7. Ginger September 25, 2012 — 7:45 PM

    Ooh! This is going to be so pretty! Love the idea of the welt pockets and the belt!

  8. Meg September 26, 2012 — 11:04 AM

    Your added details are going to make this coat so fabulous – and I’m so glad you picked the teal! It’s going to look smashing on you and last so much longer into our frigid season here. I say yes to epic pockets – but I am totally biased and think every single thing should have pockets.

  9. Anna September 27, 2012 — 4:08 AM

    That welt pocket – wow! I think I’m in love! I’m a bit disappointed I can’t incorporate that in my fall coat project, but I’m working on a 30’s Amelia Earhart style so it won’t really fit style wise.

    I would be careful not to do to many new elements to the coat. I think the overall design would disappear in all the details. My advise is to do the welt pockets, the contrast collar (but perhaps not the cuffs) with an optional belt. Looking forward to see your progress!

  10. Jen O September 27, 2012 — 10:15 AM

    Each of your design details sound great. I especially vote for the velvet edging. It’s a look you see alot in vintage coats and would look awesome with a teal fabric.

  11. Gertie’s post from today show cases your excellent taste in details.

    Can’t wait to see your coat.

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