Thurlow Trousers, Part 1 of 2

I was lucky enough to be one of Tasia’s pattern testers for her Thurlow Trouser pattern.  What’s crazy is that I cut a straight size 10 for my waist/hip!  Trousers is the garment that I really appreciate the fact that Tasia designs with the pear-shaped gal in mind so I was happy to be a tester for her.

And right about now, I’m feeling pretty bad that these are the first images that I’m getting up of the original Thurlow Trouser.  Forgive me, Tasia???

Most of you guys know that I love vintage items and tend to sew either modern patterns that have a taste of vintage or work with the real deal instead.    While I like the Thurlow trousers, they’re almost too modern for my tastes.  (Great for work though.)  This is why I paired them with my modern, BurdaStyle Tie Blouse.  Also, the fact that my facings are a mustard yellow matches perfectly with one of the pin stripes on my blouse.

The trouser is more low-waisted than I wear my pants, but it does make for a flattering (and smaller looking) rear.  Every time I pull these trousers on it feels like the thighs are too tight.  But when they’re all the way on, they look great in that thigh-ular region.  *yay*

What I have mixed feelings about is the waistband.  Half of the waistband (the front) is on the straight grain yet the sides and back of it are on the bias.  It’s comfy for sure since it has some nice stretch, but for me they didn’t feel secure enough.  I’ve found I like a more sturdy constructed waistband, yet it’s not always the most comfortable.  So you can see there’s pro’s and con’s on this design feature.

Here’s a quick shot of the waistband pattern pieces:

This was my first time putting in a fly-front zipper, and despite the best directions I ended up sewing it shut 3 times.  Aside from that, I don’t think my fly-front is flattering on me.  I have a slight lower curve (dare I say tummy), that the fly ends up exacerbating this area on my trousers.  If I were to make a fly-front version again, I’d try to make the front a bit tighter to cinch things in better.  :)

My muslin fit pretty good straight away and with minor alterations I went and cut out my fashion fabric, which is a heavy, medium weight wool stretch fabric.  (Perfect for winter, but bad for the spring/summer.)  Somehow my butt area ended up being less than ideal in the heavier fabric, but they’re still wearable.  This is the main reason why I’ve been dragging my feet to hem and post them up here.

Here’s my derriere in all it’s curvy-ness:

I would have fit these more, but honestly I have no idea what change I need to make to them.  Lower crotch curve, higher crotch curve, take fabric out of the upper legs (fish eye dart), shorten the back inseam?  Really, I have no idea if these are frown or smile lines!   All help and thoughts are welcome.  I’ve read countless websites and fitting books for trousers, yet I’m coming up short on how to adjust this area (and what is causing these lines).

Tomorrow’s post is going to be more Thurlow trousers…. but guess what?!  I’ve hijacked the pattern to make a pair of wide-legged, high-waisted pants that I think are very 40’s.  Since the fit is pretty good (aside from my butt issue) I wanted to use this pattern as a base to make countless other versions of trousers.  I already bought a cherry red, stretch cotton sateen to make a pair of pedal-pushers, but I need to work out that derriere fit first.

Pleeeease help a gal out with your *fit* thoughts.  :)

In: Sewing

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